Only for trekking bikes
ALEE DENHAM Travel posts
Alee Denham - The Americas (Episode 19)
That Mexico has a criminal reputation is nothing new. The statistics are terrible, but does that mean that every city, town and road in Mexico is also dangerous for cycling adventurers? To find out, I am embarking on my adventure in a state that ranks number four in the top ten crime areas. Together with my cycling buddy Gerardo (from Mexico) I pack my things, take a walk and set off.
I met Gerardo in Guatemala last summer. I broke my foot and Gerardo worked in the hospital where I had to spend a month to recover. Through my cycling stories I managed to get Gerardo to get on his bike and start the bikepacking adventure. He thought it was a perfect opportunity to spend his first trip with me.
We drive a 700km ride on the bikepacking route that runs through Mexico. This is a network of gravel roads and small villages that runs from Mazatlan, in the north, to the Guatemalan border in the south.
Gerardo says that Mexicans really see Mexico as a dangerous place. Especially when you see the news and hear the terrible stories. The day before Gerardo had packed his things and was ready to go, he was still doubting whether he should make this bikepacking trip. Wouldn't it be better to just say 'no' once? During our trip, his friends were very concerned about him. I myself have cycled through dozens of countries and my advice is to always have a chat with the local residents, including the police. This way you know where and when it is safe to cycle. In my 9 months in Mexico I only had to change my route twice on the advice of the locals. Fortunately, it all works out great.
If you don't know if it's safe, ask the local residents of the town or city.
Which route is safest for cycling?
Should I take the major roads or the minor roads?
Is there crime in the tourist areas or not?
I plan to go after village [name] after this. Is that a safe place?
The great thing about exploring Mexico by bike is that you get to the smallest villages where they have never seen a tourist. So everyone is very helpful. The people who live here all know each other and they trust each other. Therefore it is safer to take the small roads through small villages. The risk of crime in the city is much higher for many months.
In dangerous countries I never travel at night. I try to arrive in the cities around the middle of the day and for that I take the biggest roads out there to find myself between the cars. When I camp, I always set up my tent after sunset. That way nobody sees me and I'm a lot safer.
Once on the bike you look very vulnerable. Because of this, people often come to you to ask if they can help with something. This makes you feel very welcome, especially in the small villages. People are often concerned with my well-being and safety. Because the bicycle is a 'humble' form of transport, people never feel threatened. That is much more often the case if you have a motorcycle or a car.
And while we're on the subject of safety. A few episodes ago I was riding a bike with Eesh and we got to a road we couldn't get past. It was not safe because there was fighting over the piece of land. Now we can go down this road. Fortunately, during these 20 kilometers there is nothing wrong and we can continue our journey.
After traveling through Mexico for 9 months and chatting with the locals day in and day out, I believe Mexico is safe to cycle through. Of course, this only applies if you pay close attention and think logically. Gerardo's advice is not much different: keep asking the locals where to go and what is safe.
If you want to cycle through Mexico yourself, it's smart to look at the big picture. In recent years, thousands of cyclists have traveled the road through Mexico without any problems. I'm not saying Mexico isn't a risk, but there's so much you can do to keep the risk as low as possible. Do a good research into the areas you are going to, so you don't get any surprises. But don't forget to enjoy all the beauty that the country has to offer!