ALEE DENHAM Travel posts

Alee Denham - The Americas (Episode 9)

 

 

The highest part of the Andes Mountains is the Cordillera Blanca with almost 6000 meters altitude, resulting in snow, ice and glaciers. Unfortunately, this is the last thing I'll experience here until I'm deep in the northern part of America again.

 

I've been on the road for a few days and haven't encountered a single person, not even on the paved road. After I leave the paved road, I decide to go for a walk through this beautiful nature. I've decided that I'm going to do this without a bicycle - fortunately - because I don't see any possibility to cycle here. This National Park has more than enough trails to go on an adventure on foot. My compromise (with myself) was to hike 40km to a location that turns out to offer the best view of the entire mountain range. So after the long and steep hike up, I'm finally there! And in case you're wondering why you should know this view… The Paramount logo was created from this view.

 

After the walk I get on my bike and immediately set up camp. Not only is the view fantastic here, but I camp in a place where all I have to do is get on my bike and descend more than 30 hairpin bends. They say the best is saved for last and it is true here. With a satisfied feeling I leave this National Park and continue my route.

 

I continue through the canyon and it is not easy, sometimes a little scary even. This isn't exactly a road made for cycling, but I won't let that stop me. I continue my way with the most iconic route of Peru. A paved road with a number of long tunnels through the mountains, without any lighting and that for 35 kilometers.

 

Where I used to drive on snow, I am now driving through the drought. I set up camp behind a building which is 4,500 years old. It's a strange, but special feeling to be in this place where people have gathered for thousands of years and this still exists.

 

A few days later I was a bit behind schedule. I decided to drive through the night, but soon ran into the first problem. I cycle/walk through terribly sticky mud. In the evening I look at my laptop and see that I want to cycle a route without roads. But looking at the satellite images, I think it should be fine. With ridewithgps.com I compose my route and hope for the best. The next day I notice that the road is fine. I even found a shortcut that will save me days! Unfortunately I have to push the bike a lot, but it's fantastic to do.

 

Now for the moment that my title is about. A few weeks ago I fell into a ravine. I pushed my bike up and did nothing crazy. Suddenly a section of the trail slipped, taking me and my bike with it. I fell a total of 30 meters down, with a free fall of about 6 meters after which I landed on the rocks. At first I couldn't believe that I could still feel my limbs after the impact. My back, on the other hand, hurt incredibly badly and I couldn't move my wrist.

 

Despite that, I immediately got my bags out of the water and started climbing up. In full survival mode I climbed from rock to rock and at the end I also had to go up a waterfall. After a few miles I ran into some locals performing a religious ritual by the river. When they saw me, their smiles turned to disturbing looks within seconds. They immediately called their children and together we walked back to the bicycle and luggage that I had to secure because of the heavy rain forecast.

 

By the time we got back to the village there were people who put cocoa leaves in their mouths and started chewing heavily. When they had a thick paste in their mouths, she spat it over my wound. This turned out to be a traditional way of fighting infections.

 

I was allowed to spend the night with a very friendly family and in the morning I was taken to the nearest hospital. After the treatment it was terribly wet and I had to wait until the trail was dry again to go to another hospital to rest. A few days later I can ride to the next place. That was anything but pleasant. The 4 hour drive on the uneven road surface was very painful and seemed to take 3 times as long. Not bad with a bruised back, broken ribs and broken wrist.

 

Once I have arrived in the place where I am staying, I rest for three weeks. I found out that fortunately my wrist is not broken, but I can't go back on the road for two weeks.

My bike hasn't gotten any better. The front wheel probably took the hit, because it is completely bent. The front fork is bent and there is not much left of the handlebars. Fortunately, the rest of the bike still looks okay. Many parts will be sent from Europe and some things are made with super glue. Unfortunately my camera really died and there is nothing I can do about it…

 

 

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